Concealed Fix Stair Nosing 65x55mm Raked Back Aluminium, 1m & 2m

Older concrete and stone stairs rarely have a true vertical riser. The face leans back under the tread, and a square nosing fitted to it either stands proud at the bottom edge or has to be packed out. This profile is cut for that stair: the same 65mm fluted tread and hidden fixing as the square version, but with the 55mm riser leg raked back so it lies flat against a sloping face. It is a refurbishment profile first and foremost — the one to reach for when the treads are sound, the edges are chipped, and the flight was poured decades ago.

Why it works

The raked riser sits flush. A back-angled leg follows the slope of the step instead of bridging it, so there is no gap at the bottom to collect dirt or to catch a mop, and the fixing pulls the bar tight to the face rather than levering it away.

Fixings out of sight. Screws go through the rear channel and a 13mm PVC strip covers them. On a refurbishment that matters twice over: the walking surface stays clean, and a fixing can be lifted later if a step needs re-levelling without taking the whole bar off.

Grip machined into the tread. Fluting milled across the full 65mm carries the grip rather than a glued or clipped insert, so there is nothing to lift as the stair ages, and nothing that wears at a different rate from the metal around it.

55mm of cover down the face. Deep enough to hide a broken arris and the patch repairs underneath it, which is usually what an old flight needs.

Where it's used

Refurbished concrete stairs in schools, offices and public buildings, stone flights where the nose has worn round, back-of-house stairs, and any flight where a survey shows the riser is out of plumb.

Specifications

Choosing the right option

First confirm the rake. Hold a level against the riser: if the face leans back from the nose, this is the profile; if it is plumb, the square version fits better. The rake is 83 degrees, which covers most older poured flights, but on a distorted stair check several steps rather than assuming the flight matches.

Then pick the finish. Mill is the plain extrusion and the cheapest way to make a tired stair safe. Satin hides scuffing best and is the usual choice for public use. Polished suits front-of-house. Black anodised works against dark stone, or where a silver edge would draw the eye to a flight being left alone.

The 13mm cover strip is a finish decision: match it to the metal to keep the stair quiet, or specify yellow where the edge needs to be conspicuous. Castellated is lightly ribbed; smooth textured is flat and matt, and slightly easier to wipe.

Installation, use and care

Check the nose for loose material and make good before fixing — a raked profile bears on the sloping face, so a crumbling edge will telegraph through. Drill and plug into concrete or screw direct into timber through the rear channel, bedding on a flexible adhesive where the face is irregular. Press the cover strip in from one end afterwards. Cut with a fine-tooth blade and deburr. Clean with warm water and a neutral detergent; keep abrasive pads away from anodised and polished finishes.

Questions

How do I know if my stair is raked? Put a level on the riser. If the bottom of the face sits further back than the nose above it, the stair is raked and this profile will sit flat against it.

Will the screws show? No — they go into the rear channel and the 13mm strip covers them.

Can I mix square and raked on one flight? Yes, and on an old stair you sometimes have to. Both use the same tread width and finishes, so the flight still reads as one detail.

Ordering and delivery

Choose the finish, cover strip and bar length above. Screws and plugs are not included, as fixings suit the substrate. Orders go on a tracked service, with longer bars on a dedicated length service. For a cut-to-size schedule, a matching ramp extension or a stringer trim, send the details and we will quote them together.